You´ll have a hard time reconizing Christmas and Easter celebrations here in Mexico. They last much longer than they do back home and they are more festive, involving the entire community. We certainly felt free to join in the public displays of joy. It´s contagious. The locals are very welcoming. Life here is leisurely.
Good Friday.
Holy Week celebrations involved processions of Roman centurions, the blowing up of paper-mache Judas and a dramatic rendering of Christ´s suffering on the cross.
On Good Friday the town organized a Passion Play. In the churchyard Jesus of Nazareth was put on trial. Here he was crowned with a ring of thorns. The procession where a real life Jesus figure dragged his cross through the streets followed by the mourning Mary Magdalen and the saints and the ever present menancing Roman centurions. The young men of the village re-enact the whole story. It is a great honor to be chosen, Jesus for this role. He was perfect. Shoulder length hair. Clothed in a white robe with a rope at his waist. Serious. Very good looking! Strong. After the trial inside the church he had to drag this very heavy wooden cross (estimates were 200 pounds!) from the Cathedral , through the village streets and up the mountain to the chapel. He was accompanied by hundreds, maybe thousands of followers and stern-looking Romans. The spectacle was amazing! It commemorates the magnitude of Christ´s suffering on the cross. Once up the mountain there was a simulated crucifixion. There were also the crucifixion of the two thieves. Finally, Jesus was lowered from the cross and placed on a streatcher of some sort. He was completly covered in a white linen cloth and brought down the mountain and into the Cathedral where there was a Mass.
On Saturday after Mass, again, the townspeople gathered outside for some comic relief. There was a raucous burning of "Los Judas". Large paper- mache effigies, painted in eye-popping colours, represented Judas and other forces of evil, including the devil and unpopular political personalities. Yes. They have these here too! The figures are hung up in the street and the town plaza. They are ignited in quick succession and blown to bits, symbolizing the triumph of good over evil. What fun!
So this is Easter in Mexico. What you won´t find is any sign of the Easter bunny! No jelly beans. No marshmellow chickens. No cellophane grass. No Easter baskets. These are "Gringo" customs that have failed to make it across the border. Yet.
Mexican schools are closed now for two weeks to celebrate Easter. All workers are granted time off with pay. There is a happiness in the streets you can taste! We feel so lucky to be part of it all.
Tuesday, March 25, 2008
Wednesday, March 19, 2008
Palm Sunday in Ajijic, Mexico
What an interesting place this is. We went to "open circle", which is a non denominational service held under the trees at the Lake Chapala Society. As is our custom now we proceeded to brunch with Cathy and Gary, our Halifax friends. Bridge on their terrace followed this until four o`clock. We knew something magical was to take place at the square so we stared out treck...just a few blocks. We noticed bundles of Alfalfa sprouts tied up and lying by doorways. We knew these were decorations, but we did not know what would be done with them. meanwhile, the street was being swept and watered. This was to celebrate the entry of Christ`s triumphant entry into Jerusalem, the week before he was crucified. This marked the beginning of Holy Week that culminates in Easter.
We were told the procession would start around four but it was almost seven before anything happened. This is Mexico!
So the residents scattered the Alfalfa leaves upon the streets, making a carpet along the entire procession route. A green carpet! Amazing. Children sold individual palm fronds which were torn into eight or nine strips and woven into intricate designs. Soon the procession arrived. Jesus rode towards the cathedral on a burro accompanied by his 12 deciples on foot, all dressed in period costume. Behind them the local priest and two clergymen all in red and gold robes! The rest of Ajijic folks and visitors followed carrying their palm fronds and singing hymns all the way down to the 500 year old church where the proccession terminated .The simplicity and the splendor and the joy of these people make our obsession with easter eggs, baskets and chocolate bunnies seem garish and gaudy.
After Mass, the men with handmade brooms cleaned the streets of the trodden Alfalfa.
Then the food vendors, the musicians and diversions for the children came alive, in the decorated town square! What a feast! Fruit on sticks. Clay bowls of sweet rice pudding. Tamales. Every sort of Mexican food and candy. The older woman selling eggs, which have been blown out, painted for Easter and filled with confetti. These are broken over heads as a shower of wealth. Mostly it is just the little children who receive this but on Sunday everyone was surprised! The colours. The glee. The wonderful feeling of sharing in this simple tradition was lovely.
Funds are now being raised to pay for the Passion Play on Good Friday. Can`t wait for THAT!
Happy Easter......Kate
We were told the procession would start around four but it was almost seven before anything happened. This is Mexico!
So the residents scattered the Alfalfa leaves upon the streets, making a carpet along the entire procession route. A green carpet! Amazing. Children sold individual palm fronds which were torn into eight or nine strips and woven into intricate designs. Soon the procession arrived. Jesus rode towards the cathedral on a burro accompanied by his 12 deciples on foot, all dressed in period costume. Behind them the local priest and two clergymen all in red and gold robes! The rest of Ajijic folks and visitors followed carrying their palm fronds and singing hymns all the way down to the 500 year old church where the proccession terminated .The simplicity and the splendor and the joy of these people make our obsession with easter eggs, baskets and chocolate bunnies seem garish and gaudy.
After Mass, the men with handmade brooms cleaned the streets of the trodden Alfalfa.
Then the food vendors, the musicians and diversions for the children came alive, in the decorated town square! What a feast! Fruit on sticks. Clay bowls of sweet rice pudding. Tamales. Every sort of Mexican food and candy. The older woman selling eggs, which have been blown out, painted for Easter and filled with confetti. These are broken over heads as a shower of wealth. Mostly it is just the little children who receive this but on Sunday everyone was surprised! The colours. The glee. The wonderful feeling of sharing in this simple tradition was lovely.
Funds are now being raised to pay for the Passion Play on Good Friday. Can`t wait for THAT!
Happy Easter......Kate
Monday, March 10, 2008
more info from us guys!
Nothing has changed here weatherwise, because the weather never changes, paradise every day!
It seems that kids here are only schooled until 4th. grade, after that they have to pay for all of their future education ,as well as supplying all of the school supplies and buying their school uniforms. Consequently an awful lot of kids dont go beyond 4th. grade because the parents cannot afford to educate them. a lot of the gringos here take on the task of providing for the kids, and this also includes getting them through university.
Kate spoke to her 11 year old granddaughter ,Meaghan, in Boston and asked her if she would like to sponsor a Mexican child here for school in lieu of getting xmas and birthday gifts, Meaghan was delighted with the idea and Kate already has an 11 year old girl by the name of Daniella ready to go back to school. We go to meet her and her family this week. So many gringos are doing this type of thing here, helping the deaf, the crippled and so on, it gives you a sense of purpose and well being.
We were up today booking our new residence for next winter, we have given a deposit ,and think we will be very happy in our new digs.
The only other news flash is that I started art lessons, for the first time in my life. Its never too late!
Adios from Jack
It seems that kids here are only schooled until 4th. grade, after that they have to pay for all of their future education ,as well as supplying all of the school supplies and buying their school uniforms. Consequently an awful lot of kids dont go beyond 4th. grade because the parents cannot afford to educate them. a lot of the gringos here take on the task of providing for the kids, and this also includes getting them through university.
Kate spoke to her 11 year old granddaughter ,Meaghan, in Boston and asked her if she would like to sponsor a Mexican child here for school in lieu of getting xmas and birthday gifts, Meaghan was delighted with the idea and Kate already has an 11 year old girl by the name of Daniella ready to go back to school. We go to meet her and her family this week. So many gringos are doing this type of thing here, helping the deaf, the crippled and so on, it gives you a sense of purpose and well being.
We were up today booking our new residence for next winter, we have given a deposit ,and think we will be very happy in our new digs.
The only other news flash is that I started art lessons, for the first time in my life. Its never too late!
Adios from Jack
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